LADY, YOU WANT COLD DRINKS?

Day #4
Monday, 17 July 2006

After being overdosed on temples the day before, I woke up, saying to myself – “Oh No! Not again!!!” I was a bit reluctant to travel further to see Banteay Srei. I read so much about this temple that I think, we shouldn’t miss it. Further, it was loosely translated as “citadel of the women”.

Banteay Srei

This temple is notable for its intricate carvings and said to have the finest examples of classical Khmer art. We went there rather late again and it slightly drizzled as we approached the temple. The sky was gloomy and it was difficult to get good pictures as my camera doesn’t really work well in dark places. Anyway, we did snap some pics as keepsakes of this trip. Banteay Srei is surprisingly a very small temple compare to its cousins. One should just take note of its carvings as it has nothing much to offer in terms of architecture. Further, the temples were sealed for restoration, we hardly had the chance to inspect the carvings close up.

I eaves dropped a tour guide speaking to some tourists in Mandarin, saying that this temple consists of carvings of beautiful women - "....If you notice properly, all the women carvings have small waist and wore earrings. Women with small waist were highly desirable during the time...." (Since when women with big waists were favoured? Tell me! Tell me!!!). The guide can really talk cock.

We decided to have a picnic there since most of the food within the temples vicinity sucks big time, we bought some bread from Blue Pumpkin. The weather was not conducive for a picnic as dark clouds loomed over. We were worried it might rain heavily while we were eating.

Another big mistake. The temple does not have columns like the Preah Khan or Angkor Wat or Banteay Kdei which could provide reasonable shade from the sun. We settled down at the side of the temple. The sun seemed to follow us wherever we go. It was bright the moment we found a comfortable shade by the side of the temple. We ended up eating hastily and headed to the tuk tuk to go to Banteay Samre.

I prefer Banteay Samre to Banteay Srei. I guess it all had to do with the weather. When we approached Banteay Samre, it was gloomy again and started to drizzle. We kinda welcome this cold weather; as if it didn’t rain, it would be too hot to walk. And not rain too heavy either – or else, I couldn’t imagine the 3 of us hurdling in the tuk tuk with cars or lorries passing by and probably splashing some mud into our tuk tuk, considering there are so many pot holes on the road.

Banteay Samre - check out the kid posing for me.

Banteay Samre surprises me by being well restored. Unlike other famous temples which almost reduced to rumbles at every angle, this one stood perfectly untouched. There was hardly anyone there except for a couple of people there. I guess it was well preserved due to lack of visitors who only come to Siem Reap for Angkor Wat. We had quite a good time looking through the temple as the weather was cooling down. There were a few street children playing hide and seek in the temple. I waved at them and gave them some cookies and sweets. This brought wide smiles upon their small, dirt covered face. This was the highlight of the day.

As we approached the backyard of Banteay Samre, there was this garden with a stone platform, where 6 singhas sat. Obviously, most of the singhas were beheaded by probably culprits who sold the loot for a handsome profit. This temple indeed looked like a palace.

I could picture a princess playing with hordes of her servants here; gathering flowers, chatting about nothingness or maybe just bask in the sun. Ah well, what do I know.

Everywhere we go, there would be little kids pestering us to buy cold drinks from them. They would say to you, “Lady, you want cold drinks?” or “Lady, do you want a scarf? I give you good price!” “Lady, please buy a star from me.” I think it is better for you to buy from the kids at the lesser known temples as the famous temples would gather more tourists. Unfortunately, I have bought my postcards and books from earlier temple visits, or else, I would have gotten them from these children.

On the way to National Silk Centre

We went to Artisan de Angkor National Silk Centre after Banteay Samre – it was indeed a long journey. We don’t see many tuk tuks going that way. I never seemed to learn from my past mistake of going to such far away place in a tuk tuk (Phnom Penh to Tonle Bati!). It was a bumpy ride. The scenery on the way is quite fulfilling. There were water buffaloes, cows, water lilies, green paddy fields, little nice straw houses, etc.

National Silk Centre was quite an interesting place, a good change from having to look at temples again. We were briefed for free on how silk is being produced.

National Silk Centre

To produce silk, at first you have to have silk worms (Duh?). Silk worms fed on mulberry leaves. Once the silk worm matures, it would round itself into a cocoon to turn into a moth. However, that won’t be the case for the silk worms here. Once they are wrapped up in a cocoon, they would be dried in the sun for 3-4 days. (Meaning you kill them for their silk lah). The dead cocoons would be boiled and fine strings of silk (look like spider web) would be harvested out of it. I seriously don’t know how people could discover silk this way. Sheer brilliance. As much as I hated bugs – I don’t think I like the idea of killing in order to get a luxurious product. Like you kill a crocodile for its skin, or maybe hunt down an elephant for its ivory, or you fatten up a goose for its liver? I better stick to cotton clothings. I could see myself turning into a vegetarian as well.

After Artisan de Angkor National Silk Centre, we went to Wat Bo area to check out the new and big market, Phsar Leu. It was quite chaotic as everyone was rushing home after the market closed. We were a bit pissed as Chan was not aware of the closing time. Phsar Leu closed about 6 pm, which is quite early. Unlike Old Market and Centre Market (both at about 7.30 pm) We were there for only 15 minutes and I managed to get a pair of Nike shoes at USD12. Don’t know if it is the real thing? Phsar Leu is a big market catering mainly for the locals. Most people there couldn’t understand English. We had to use hand signals to get message across. Both WY and I downed a bowl of pumpkin dessert each since I could hear my stomach growled like a lion.

As we were traveling to the north, then east and west of Siem Reap in a day, we decided to tip Chan a bit more for the long journey; despite not knowing the time of the closure of the market – can’t blame him as not many people would shop at Phsar Leu as most tourists would be shopping at either Old Market or Centre Market. After paying Chan, both Viv and I lectured Chan like our little brother on how to tackle tourists more and improve his communication skills for his own good. Being his shy self, he went, “Yah! Yah! Yah!” – his very standard, yet diplomatic answer throughout the four whole days of journey.

The last night, we had dinner at this Cambodian BBQ behind Pub Street, just opposite John McDermott’s Gallery. It is a cute way of BBQ-ing, the top part is for BBQ, the surrounding part is steamboat. There was a huge lard on top of the BBQ pot. I guess this somewhat brings the nice aroma for the BBQ. The portion is kinda small and slightly pricey compared to others, but it was quite tasty.

I couldn’t refrain myself from buying the whole McDermott’s collection as the pictures were simply breath-taking. Cost me USD12!! A nice little keepsakes from Siem Reap to remind me on how Angkor Wat once stood tall in all its grandeur, a few years ago.

We went to Khmer Taste for another round of beer and fresh spring rolls before we called it a night. It was indeed a fun night out; everyone was at ease and sitting idly to watch the night sank deeper into the dark.